YOUR QUESTIONS ANSWERED
The questions have been answered in the order that they are received so questions on similar matters may not be close together. Please check the whole page to see if your question has already been answered. To make this easier all questions are written in yellow and the anwers in white.
Q. The first ever question is from M.R.S. of Canada who asks where he can obtain grooved tramway rail.
A. The best known source is Swedtram Aktiebolog, Drakenbergsgatam 34, S-412 69, Goteborg, Sweden. Their web site address is www.welcome.to/swedtram. If writing to them for details of prices and shipping information, do remember to enclose the appropriate number of International Reply Coupons so that they can answer you. The Model Railroader magazine ran a series of articles, commencing with the October 1999 issue, on the construction of a "tramway" layout using American terminology.Q. Michael of Australia would like to know how to use an overhead power supply to run his model trams.
A. The easiest method is to contact either Tramalan or David Voice - see "Contacts" page for addresses - who can supply all the components needed to construct an overhead supply system complete with full instructions. Its not difficult!Q. E.F of Mexico has e-mailed to ask how the lights on the trams on Blackpool-in-the-box work.
A. Once again, simplicity is the keynote! To light the interior of the tram a short length of opaque drinking straw is fixed to the ceiling or floor (wherever its least visible) and a clear grain of wheat bulb connected in series is inserted in each end of the straw and connected to the current supply for the motor. However, this does mean that the lights flicker as the tram moves along the track and go out when the tram stops. It is possible to eliminate the flicker and to keep the lights on after the tram has stopped by adding a high frequency circuit which runs through the rails and/or overhead system. The much simpler system is that in use on Blackpool in the box where the two rails forming the track supply the traction current and the overhead system supplies the poitive current for the lighting while the negative return uses the negative return rail of the track. This allows the lights to stay on when the tram is stationary and minimises the flickering of the lights. For the front headlights and rear lights 1mm diameter fibre optic strand is used to take the light from a lightproof box containing a grain of wheat bulb to the individual light fitting.
The destination boxes and roof mounted advertisment boxes are lit by individual bulbs behind the destination boxes and inside the advert boxes.These can be in series with those lighting the saloons, this will make the bulbs dimmer but they will last much longer. I find that six three volt bulbs running in series from a twelve volt supply are just about the correct level of brightness. Be careful to ensure that you can always gain access to the inside of the tram body so that you can change bulbs when necessary. I always fix the floor to the body using screws or clip the floor into the body.
Q. E.R. from Kent has asked why he cannot run his model trams from the overhead without either his pantographs getting caught up in the overhead or his trolley wheels de-wiring. A. This is a problem for the prototype tramway as well as the model tramway. Most systems use either pantographs or trolley poles and the overhead is set up for that system. Blackpool uses both pantograph and trolleypole equipped trams and have had to modify all points and crossovers on the overhead system using what I can only describe as bars to prevent the pantographs snagging on the overhead. The two photographs below, taken at Bispham, show the fittings at the crossover there. Fitting these bars through model overhead points and crossings would be a very difficult task and not one that I would like to undertake. Blackpool in the box uses, like the prototype, both pantographs and trolley poles to collect current from the overhead to power the interior lighting of the model trams but has no crossovers or points in the overhead system and so has no problems.
Q. James would like to know how to fix fibre optic strands in his model as glues don't seem to work.
A. This is a major problem for everyone using plastic fibre optic strand in modelling when not using one of the specially designed fittings (which, in general, aren't suitable for use in modelling applications). The surface of fibre optic strand is so smooth that glues such as PVA won't adhere to the surface and neither will superglues, whilst the solvents used to assemble plastic kits will dissolve the strands, as will aromatic adhesives such as Evostic. The only type of adhesive that I have found which will work on fibre optic strand is an epoxy resin type such as Araldite. Unfortunately, epoxy adhesives don't adhere very well to some of the plastics used in the manufacture of some plastic kits. In this situation it may be necessary to glue a small piece of very thin metal to the plastic using Evostic or similar adhesive and then use epoxy to fix the fibre optic strand to the metal piece.Q. Dan has asked "an easy one". How do you paint on the wooden panels on such things as Standards and Dreadnoughts, I've tried different brown paints but not to good effect, have you got any tips?
A. An easy one??? Well, yes and no! The answer is easy but the application is difficult. To explain, the prototype utilised real wood with real grain which was varnished using "real" varnish, something very difficult to obtain today as it has to be matured in barrels in a similar manner to wine. Real varnish has a colour ranging from a very light amber to a rich "nutty" brown which obviously changed the colour of the wood to which it was applied. The colour then deepened during use, becoming much darker over time. Having decided what wood was used on the prototype, eg. teak, mahogony etc., you must prime and undercoat your model using the lightest colour preparations available. The next coatof paint is yellow or a very yellow orange. This coat is known as a scumble coat and must be an oil based paint. This should be left for several days to dry between each coat and you will probably need two coats. Now comes the clever bit, using an appropriate colour of water based wood stain, a very light coating is applied on top of the scumble coat and then virtually brushed away using a dry brush to leave the "wood grain" effect. As you will appreciate, this is a process requiring a great deal of expertise which cannot be easily learnt, requiring a great deal of practice and is not a technique which I can use although the examples I have seen at model exhibitions are superb and the method explained in great detail by the modeller concerned. Don't lose heart however, there is a much simpler, though less effective method available and which satisfies most people. This method involves painting the model in the usual way, the "wooden" section being painted in a colour which is approximately correct. When all is completely dry - allow several days to be completely certain - then apply a darker version of your "wooden" colour using the dry brush technique so that almost no colour is left on the brush and then lighly brush along the model. This darker colour, together with the visible brush strokes, will simulate the grain of the wood quite well. Be careful not to apply too much "grain" effect as otherwise it will look very wrong.Q. Matthew writes "I have a deep fascination with the Blackpool trams. I have no experience with model tramways but have 8 corgi Blackpool models that I would like to run on a small, simple layout. Could you tell me if it is possible to motorise them and how and where I would go about this?
A.Yes, its very possible to motorise the Corgi Balloons and Railcoaches. There are several methods available but which you choose will depend upon your modelling skills The easiest method is to use the complete floor, motor and unpowered bogie unit from a Bachman "PCC Streamline" tram which are the correct size for fitting into the Corgi bodies.The Bachmann "Brill Trolley" floor/motor unit could also be used but this requires cutting and the insertion of a spacing piece. A benefit of using the "Brill" unit is that the body can be converted into a model of a Blackpool "Greenhouse" tram. Special white metal adaptor sets to covert a Corgi tram using the Bachman "PCC" and "Brill" units are available by mail order from Derek Lambelle. His address is on the "Contacts" page. The motor bogies from a Bachmann American switcher locomotive known as a 44 Tonner can also be used but in this instance it is necessary for the chassis to be cut down and the bogies fitted to a bar which is then screwed to two holes drilled in the lower deck roof of the Balloon or onto some plastic packing pieces glued onto the ceiling of the single deck railcoach. This is a job which shouldn't take more than an hour or so. Bob Wilson has the Bachmann locos for sale and could, for a small fee do the necessary conversion work for you using your own trams. If you would like more details his address is P.R.Wilson, 9, Underhill Drive, Uphill, Weston Super Mare, Somerset and his telephone number is 01934 622093. He can also supply Corgi trams at advantageous prices! The next method, although quite simple, also results in the motor bogie having too long a wheelbase but this isn't usually noticeable until pointed out. This conversion uses a Tenshodo 24.5mm wheelbase motor bogie. It will be necessary to create a new floor and unpowered bogie but this is relatively easy using plasticard. The Tenshodo motor bogie and an unpowered bogie can be purchased from Derek Lambelle, His contact details are on the"Contacts" page. A further method is to use an underfloor mechanism. For this you will need to make a new floor and construct the mechanism and bogies from a kit. There are two kits available, from David Voice and Tramalan. David's kit is an etched brass kit and the Tramalan one is white metal. They both work very well and both types are used on Blackpool in the box. A small warning however, they both require a modicum of care in assembly and their free running should be checked at each stage of construction to ensure that everything is running smoothly as the motors are quite small. Derek Lambelle can supply them or they are available from David or Tramalan direct, contact details on the "Contacts" page., Finally, you could use a pair of Bec bogies, It is recommended that you use two motor bogies as these drive on one axle only and the weight of the Corgi tram requires drive to at least two axles. These are available from Derek Lambelle or direct from Bec. Alan Kirkman, a professional tramway modeller will be able to motorise the trams for you. Once again, his contact details are on the website. As you will probably have realised, all the contact details given above are on the "Contact" page of the website. A new page detailing the motorising of a Corgi tram using a Bachman "Brill Trolley" unit can be found on the "Motorising" page, just click on "To Next Page" link below
Q.Richard would like to know the minimum radius that model trams can use in 4mm scale.
A. It is generally accepted that it is best to use the largest possible radius but 6inch radius is usually the smallest working radius. To use this radius with some trams with the bogies "hidden" or partially hidden behind the bodywork may require some modification to the bodywork in order to stop the wheels rubbing on the bodysides and allow enough room for the bogie to swing. On Blackpool in the box the bogies are not hidden and all the trams will run on 6 inch radius curves including the Corgi ones motorised using the Bachmann units. Details of the motorising methods can be found on the "motorising" page of this website.Q. Richard would also like to know if he can run his 4mm scale trams on code 100 rail.
A. In a word, Yes! Most 4mm scale trams use wheels made by firms such as Tramalan, ABS, Romford etc., or ready to run motor units such as those made by Tenshodo or those from Bachmann model trams and model railway itesm, and these will all run on code 100 rail as well as code 75 and code 65 rail. Ready made track from model railway suppliers such as Hornby, Bachmann and Peco use code 100 rail and ready made track using code 75 or code 65 rail is available from Scaleway, SMP and other manufacturers, all of which are suitable for model tramway use. If you wish to represent the "groove" of tramway rails it is possible to glue microstrip to the plastic sleepered track. Nickel silver strip or another rail can be soldered to the PCB sleepers if manufacturing your own track. Suitable rail can be bought from Peco, SMP and other manufacturers. On Blackpool in the box I use PCB sleepers to which is soldered code 65 rail with code 55 rail (usually used for "N" and "Z" gauge model railways) to represent the groove before infilling between the two inner rails with polyfilla which is then embossed and coloured as necessary. This method allows extra clearance for gear wheels etc mounted below the level of the bogie or truck and is extremely reliable; derailments are virtually unknown on the layout as can be seen at exhibitions.Q. How are the backscenes for Blackpool in the box made?
A.They are made from a great number of photographs which are joined together using a computer programme. It is only possible to use a small section of the centre of the photograph due to optical effects at the edge of all photographs. Full details will be forwarded on receipt of an e-mail to Len as there isn't sufficient space to give a detailed reply on this page. Be warned however, you will need a computer with a tremendous amount of memory.Q. Where can I obtain a map of the Blackpool tramway system as it used to be?
A.There a maps in some of the books by Steve Palmer listed in the Bibliography page but as some of these are out of print a facsimile map and a facsimile timetable are available from Lancastrian Transport Publications, 5 Rossall Road, Cleveleys, Lancashire, FY5 1APQ. How can I make round corners to the windows of a tram which I am constructing from plasticard?
A. Having marked out the windows drill a hole using a drill of the correct size for the radius of the curve of the window in each corner of the window, see diagram on the left.
Then cut along the outline of the window just inside the marked line and then file back to the line using a fine file. If wanting to cut out windows with square corners, there is no need to drill the holes in each corner but to get a neat finish, cut diagonally from each corner before cutting around the frame. This will allow you to remove the unwanted plasticard without any problems - see diagram on the right.
Q.John would like to know How he can model the early Blackpool conduit system?/P> A. First of all I should say that these methods would also apply if you were modelling the LONDON system as well as the Blackpool one. Its very simple indeed. Depending upon your personal choice of materials, and whether you want a working or purely decorative system, you can use plastic channel from the Plastruct range, or if you wish to make a working model you could purchase brass channel from the K&S range. Both products are available from good model shops of if you haven't got a local shop then Dave Cleal of Mainly Trains in Watchet always has these items in stock and can send by return. His address is on the "Contacts" page and you can order by e-mail on a secure link. To use, the plastic channel is simply glued in the centre of your track before "filling in" although you may need some spacers underneath the channel depending upon the type of rail which you are using. If you are using PCB sleepers and want a working conduit - yes, it is possible, - then just ensure that you cut through the copper coating each side of the brass channel, the two rails can then both act as the negative or earth or current return contacts and the brass "conduit can be connected to the positive connection of the controller. A suitable sprung contact would then make contact with the bottom of the channel and convey the current to the motor. Alternatively, two rail traction could be used with the conduit providing current for lighting the tram.
Q David e-mailed to ask how best to paint the downward sweeps of white and maroon at the ends of the Keil Kraft Edinburgh car.
A.The simplest way to create these lining effects, on all types of tram, is to purchase some ordinary decal film - avoid the very high priced types for laser printers and ink jet printers - and paint it using your normal paints in the colour of the lining. Photocopy a drawing or whatever with the lining effect to the correct scale and then cut it out and use as a template to cut your painted waterslide decal film then use as an ordinary waterslide decal. Do ensure that the paint is fully dry and use a brand new scalpel blade to make a clean cut. Used carefully you will be able to line out a large number of trams from one A4 or Letter size sheet of decal filmQ I want to fit etched brass mesh panels for the decency panels on a whitemetal open top tram but need to know when is the best time to fit them? (I mean before or after painting the tram). Also do I fit the lower platforms dashes, gates etc before painting the whole tram. I am building Birkenhead 20.
A. This is a matter best decided by each modeller for himself so can only say what I do and hope that it helps. It doesn't really matter whether you assemble your model using solder or glue. The main problems are that if soldering then you cannot solder painted parts onto painted parts as solder won't take on paint whilst, if glueing the glue could damage the paint on the parts already painted. In both instances it would be necessary to retouch the areas and this could be as difficult as painting the assembled tram and could be difficult to get a good surface. Unless it is absolutely impossible to paint after assembly, I always fit everything first the give a good wash in soapy water folled byseveral rinses in clean water (soap can make it difficult for paint to "take" on a surface thus flaking off at a later date) before drying thoroughly and then painting etc.Q Neil e-mailed to ask why his Corgi Blackpool trams powered by a Bachmann PCC unit was derailing on the very tight (6 inch) curves on his layout. He also complained of wheelslip.
A. You will find this derailing problem on very tight radius curves (generally about 7.5 inches and below). The solution is quite easy. All you need to do is to file away some of the plastic at each "corner" of the bogie cut out in the chassis, leaving just enough to keep the chassis in one piece. You will need to do this on both the motorised and unmotorised bogie cut outs.
as seen in this photo. The larger cutout which results after filing is seen on the right with the original cut out on the left. The wheelslip problem is normally due to the higher rolling resistance when traversing very small radius curves. When you have increased the amount of bogie "swing" as detailed you will find that the situation will improve. However, as the scale wheelbase for Blackpool trams is approx 16mm and the Bachmann unit has a bigger wheelbase, the rolling resistance on the sharper radius curves could mean that slight wheelslip remains a problem.
Q David asks how he can stop paint "creeping" beneath masking tape after it is applied to his model. He complains that instead of a smooth dividing line he ends up with a "jagged" division.
A. The solution is quite simple. After applying the masking tape give another light coat of paint the same colour as you are masking off. Allow at least 24 hours to dry and then spray the colour you require and allow a while for the paint to "soft" set before gently removing the masking tape. You will now have a crisp division of the colours. By spraying a coat of the same colour first you will make a seal between the masking tape and the underlying paint and as the paint you are spraying is the same colour, any "creep" won't be noticeable.If you have a question which you would like answered please contact Len, the details are on the "Contents" page.
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